As far as first world statements go, Saturne can be a roller coaster of emotions.
Overall I thought the cuisine at Saturne was really beautiful, particularly my main pictured above, a beautifully tender Lieu de Jaune accessorised with baby clams and a blast of subtle citrus.
What I found distinctly more challenging was a tartare of beef, covered in fermented champignons de Paris and a panko crumb texture tasting wholly of smoke.
The beef was minced, at room temperature, making it so tender and almost warm that it felt like eating finely mashed potato. It was a really overwhelming combination of strong flavour with such a smooth texture. Delicious and diabolical at the same time.
What it was is memorable. I still can’t work out if I loved or hated it, but sometimes its nice to go somewhere and eat the unexpected, rather than the tried and tested.
Go for the three-course lunch during the week for just €45, and you can make your own mind up. The light-filled dining room and extensive glass cellar are worth a visit alone.
Impress fellow hipsters: by finishing your entrée.
Restaurant Saturne, 17 rue Notre-Dame des Victoires 75002
T. +33 (0)1 42 60 31 90
Monday – Friday, 12.00pm – 2.30pm + 8.00pm – 10.30pm
Closed Saturday & Sunday